If you take a look around t’internet you will see more versions of the Klinkhamer than you can shake a stick at. Some of them are useful, many are just someone’s interpretation of Hans’ original, and some are a joke. If I want a Klinkhamer I will tie a Klinkhamer that will look and behave as Hans’ original one does. Sometimes what I want from an emerger pattern is not what a Klinkhamer offers. One of the things a Klinkhamer will not do is skate across the surface. Pull it against the the current and a Klinkhamer will sink. When you take the tension off it will pop up again. This, on it’s day can be a deadly tactic. Sometimes though you want something that will skate rather than sink. That is why here I offer the NAKH (Not Another KlinkHamer). Of course it will perform every bit as well dead drifted, sometimes better.
The abdomen in this case is made from Nymph Skin, it is non porous so avoids the cocking problems that can be associated with a dubbed abdomen. A Petejean Magic Took will make the tying easier, but this fly can be tied without if you don’t have one. You will also need two bobbin holders.
There are a lot of stages in tying this fly but work through them steadily, making sure each is right before moving on, using only the turns of thread you have to, and you will not have any problems.
Hook: Daiichi Klinkhamer 1160 any size you like. Thread: Primrose or tan about 8/0 or 70 denier Hot spot: Fl. Green or Fl. Fire Orange UTC 70. Wing: Antron Yarn (the finest you can find) and 1 or 2 mm foam sheet. Abdomen: Translucent Nymph Skin. Thorax: Mouse Beaver dubbing Brown Ochre. Parachute Hackle: Mix of CdC and English Partridge.
Nymph Skin, Daiitchi Hooks and Mouse Beaver Dubbing are available from Virtual Nymph.
(Click on the VN Logo)
Start the hot spot thread well round the bend where you want the hot spot.
Run the thread in touching turns to where you want the abdomen to finish.
Prep the Nymph skin by cutting across it at a very shallow angle. Use the hot spot thread to catch in the point you have made.
Leave both the thread and the nymph skin at that point.
Start the main thread behind the hook eye and run down to the position where you want the wing to be. Do not make the wing too close to the eye. That would upset the balance of the fly on the water.
Tie in the wing across the hook shank with cross wraps. Twist the wing around the hook shank, so it is below the shank. Lift both sides and make several turns of thread around the base of the wing.
Cut a strip of foam from a sheet about 3 to 4 mm wide. Fold it under the wing, and secure with wraps of thread around the wing root. Tie down in front and behind the wing. Do not worry about crushing the foam. It is not here to add buoyancy, but to “blade” the wing.
Run the main thread down to the hot spot thread catching in the loose end of the thread. Once the hot spot thread is secure run the thread back to the start of the bend as shown.
Wind the nymph skin up to where the thread is hanging. Start winding under a lot of tension and ease the tension off as you wind for a tapered body.
If you want a more distinctive caddis shaped body, let the initial tension off quickly as you wind. Then apply the tension again from about the half way point.
Tie off securely and remove the excess
Dub the thorax behind the wing. In one open turn take the dubbed thread to the eye, then wind the dubbed thread back to the wing post.
Make sure you cover all the foam at the base of the wing.
Finish with the thread at the back of the wing.
Set a mix of CdC and partridge hackle fibres into the thread. Spin the thread up to create a rope.
This is easily done with a Petitjean Magic Tool, However, if you do not have one place two CdC feathers and a large partridge hackle together and stroke the fibres out from the stems.
Split the thread. This is best done with a sewing machine needle. Insert the fibres from one side of the three stacked feathers into the split. Pull down on your bobbin to close the split and hold the fibres. Trim the stems off the fibres close to the thread. Then spin your bobbin holder to create the rope.
Wind the fibre rope around the wing post, above the thorax.
The whip finish goes around the wing post between hackle and thorax. You can, if you need to, reposition the hook in the vice to do this. It is possible though just to form the whip finish in a horizontal plane. How to do this is contained in my Generic Parachute Video
Trim out the excess foam close to the hackle.
Trim the wing to shape and you are ready to go.
Of course there are more options than I can cover here with this fly. Here are two variations on how you could colour the abdomen.
Wipe with a marker pen working from the wing down the abdomen gives a result like this. Don’t go in the other direction or the ink will run around the turns of nymph skin uncontrollably.
In the example on the left I have coloured the edge of the Nymph Skin before winding the abdomen.
Hold the nymph skin in a bulldog clip to do this.
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